Boston Arts and Crafts: Focus of MFA Jewelry Exhibit

Paris, New York, London, these are cities you might think of when you think of jewelry being created. The kind of jewelry that withstands the test of time that you see when you look at exhibits in a museum. If you read my 4-part series on the Evolution of the Jewelry Industry in America that covered the Colonial Era through the late 19th Century. I looked at the listing of jewelers and manufacturers in Boston and talked about how this helped fuel the Boston Arts and Crafts movement. And how Boston was a one time know for its jewelry

If you enjoyed those posts then you should visit the Museum of Fine Arts (MFA) at Boston. The exhibit on view focuses on the Boston jewelers of the Arts and Crafts era. Since you may not be able to go my post is covering several of the items and themes that were on display.

The Featured Designer

Coming up to the exhibit the museum wanted you to know that these pieces are Boston made. The first piece you see is by Frank Gardner Hale that is on loan from the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. This designer is named a leader and advocate in the Boston Arts and Crafts movement. His work is featured throughout the exhibit and one of his pendants is used on the advertising material and banners for the jewelry exhibit. The necklace is a dramatic piece with lots of color.

Gemstone Necklace, Frank Gardner Hale

You enter and more of Hale’s work is displayed.

Display dedicated to work of Frank Gardner Hale

Here is the necklace I mentioned that is seen on the MFA’s promotional materials.

Opal and Green Garnet Necklace, Frank Gardner Hale

There were different aspects of the jewelry making process that were featured in the exhibit…

The Design Phase

Some drawings of designs by Frank Hale were included. These drawings are done in graphite, ink and watercolor. Can you spot the opal necklace we just looked at?

Jewelry Designs by Frank Gardner Hale

The Enameling

This media is featured through out the Boston Arts and Crafts movement. In fact, this is a defining style of Boston. Colors were chosen to mimic or enhance colored gemstones. The display read that enamels are created by heating powdered glass to a metal substrate.

Enamel Display for Boston Arts and Crafts

The Inspirations

There are several types of inspirations two mentioned in the Boston Arts and Crafts movement were designers and historic periods. One designer that has inspired many a modern designer was also inspiring his peers at the time, Louis Comfort Tiffany. Tiffany is in New York but this Black Opal necklace from around 1910 was in the exhibit as a great example of how he used color.

Black Opal and Demantoid Garnet Necklace, Louis Comfort Tiffany, made around 1910

Some historical times that inspired Boston Arts and Crafts jewelers included medieval Europe and Colonial America.

Moonstone Necklace, Frederick Partridge, another designer mentioned as an inspiration, this designer was from London, England


One aspect to note from the jewelry above is the use of color and materials. One item of information that I found very interesting is that the use of color distinct to Boston was due to the educational system at the time. Color Theory was part of the public-school education. I don’t think color theory was used much in my high school classes, mentioned in junior high but could have been elaborated on more. As a reader did you have a public-school education that covered color theory well? That training in color theory is what compelled the jewelers to design with less main stream stones so that the colors they wanted could be achieved! Below is one of my favorite pieces from the color display.

Enamel and Citrine Peacock Brooch, Gertrude S. Twichell

Women Featured

One aspect of exhibits that are becoming more common are features on women in the field. The MFA included that aspect to the Boston Arts and Crafts exhibit. Works included Elizabeth Copeland, Josephine Hartwell Shaw, and Margaret Rogers. A few of their works in the gallery below.

There were a few other areas, but this is a good overview of the exhibit going on at the MFA Boston. The exhibit goes through March 2020, find more info with this link. Please let me know if you have seen it or are planning to go. Are there questions you have about Boston Arts and Crafts? I would be happy to answer what I can. Hope you return next week for more Data in the Rough!

Enamel Peacock Box, Frank J. Marshall

How Jewelry: The Body Transformed Exhibit is highlighting the Public’s Interest in Jewelry

Do you consider jewelry art? What kind of jewelry? I think of jewelry as art but only certain kinds I really enjoy viewing. The JAR exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City was an art show to me. It was also the first time I went to the Met. I made the trip again earlier in the month to see Jewelry: The Body Transformed before it ends on Sunday February 24th. It opened in November, a short time for viewing, if you had to travel to see it. Jewelry featured in museums is becoming more common. The Museum of Fine Arts in Boston has their own jewelry focused exhibit that started in November 2018 as well, that exhibit goes into 2020 and I hope to see it soon!

For this post I’ll give some highlights from the exhibit, what I thought of it and look at how this might set the trend for many more shows focusing on jewelry.

The Exhibit

The exhibit was across 2 rooms with many different eras and styles covered. Below are only a few of the many pieces that have played a part in human culture.

Modern and Ancient Jewelry

Not everything was sparkly the bracelet on the left made in 1995 of Polyester and resin by Peter Chang, bracelet on right is from Thailand made of Bronze around 300 B.C.-200 A.D.
Both are earrings, the pair further back is from the 5th-8th century Peru of sodalite. gold, turquoise and shell; earrings closer are Polynesian, early 19th C made of whale ivory

Jewelry from Other Cultures

Chinese headdress with phoenixes and flowers from Ming Dynasty made of gold, rubies, pearls, cat’s-eyes, iron
Really enjoyed seeing this Jewish wedding ring from 17th-19th C made of gold and enamel, from either Eastern Europe or Venice
Indian carved brooch from the Mughal period, setting made later by Cartier

18th & 19th Century Jewelry

Bracelets with portrait miniatures, 1840, New York, gold, watercolor on ivory, on reverse is hair
Dress ornament, Georges Fouquet, 1923, made of jade, onyx, diamonds, enamel, platinum
Brooch with lotuses and pendant moonstones, with gold and enamel by Ferdinand Hauser, 1912-13
Some costume pieces were included my favorite by Yves Saint Laurent, glass, rhinestone, metal from 1983-84

Jeweled Accessories

Ceremonial neck armor, French, 1600, steel and gold
A more modern take on armor by Shaun Leane for Alexander McQueen, 2000
Silk Evening gloves by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1935-40
Jade dagger with sheath, Indian, 19th Century

Jewelry of Business

One of my favorite sections was themed Jewelry of Business and included Tiffany & Co, Marcus & Co., Lalique, Cellini, to name a few. These were successful businesses and many are still around. I did feel something was missing from the exhibit.

Rene Lalique, 1897-99, gold, enamel, amethysts,opals

What did I see missing from Jewelry: The Body Transformed?

One designer missing was my favorite, Faberge. I did not see anything of his work in the exhibit. He should have had items in the Business of Jewelry. The Met has a display of his work so after I was done looking at Jewelry: The Body Transformed, I found my Faberge section. See a photo of some of the Imperial Eggs below.

Faberge Eggs

The Future Exhibits

If Faberge had been included I would say this was a near perfect exhibit. I think that maybe the Met should look into creating a larger exhibit dedicated to the Russian goldsmith. For the future of exhibits I see more jewelry exhibits. Hillwood just finished their Faberge exhibit and I mentioned about the MFA current exhibit. I think that the interest is there museums and curators need to look at the business and workmanship angle to better educate the public on the artistry and craft of jewelry.

Thank you for reading and visit the exhibit at the Met if you are in the area. Please leave me a comment if you went or what pieces you liked from my post. Looking forward to posting more on Data in the Rough!